Escalators, Graffiti, & Change – December 2018

We took a guided tour one morning through Comuna 13 (San Javier), a densely populated, low-income area on the upper west side of Medellin. We were attracted to this area not only because of the significant history of Comuna 13, but also to see the many examples of graffiti artwork (murals) along the walkways and on the sides of buildings. Our tour group included folks from the Netherlands, the US, and a newly married couple from Morocco.

Leandro, who lives in Communa 13 and was our tour guide, told us that in the 1980s and 1990s this was considered the most dangerous part of the city because of the high numbers of homicides, mostly related to fighting between drug cartels, guerrillas, the military, and other rebel groups wanting to control the area.

He explained to our tour group that the most Colombian military took significant action in 2002 to overthrow all rebel groups, including drug cartels. Over 1,000 policemen, soldiers, and aircrew in helicopters attacked the area. Nine people were killed (including three children), and hundreds were wounded. The siege made it impossible to seek medical attention for the wounded, and the community took to the streets in solidarity waving white rags. With that action, the fighting stopped.

Residents expressed their frustration and anger with the violence that occurred in 2002 through art and community events. As we walked up the streets in San Javier we saw large murals (locally called graffiti) that show scenes with the white rags raised for peace and solidarity, as well as paintings depicting the history of the area, expressing hope, and the desire for change. Leandro said that new artwork continues to be added to walls in the area.

After the military attack in 2002 the city began providing additional services and resources to Comuna 13, such as more schools, a library, and parks. In 2011 the city added six escalators to San Javier so that residents could more easily reach places further up the side of their neighborhoods instead spending 35 minutes to climb the 357 steps. We used the escalators to travel the same distance and it took us 6 minutes and much less energy. For the elderly or physically challenged residents in Communa 13 this is a very important difference.