Old Water Channels & An Even Older Road – September 2019

We explored several of the less popular tourist sites in Rome: two old aqueducts and an ancient, important road. The ancient and impressive aqueduct system, built between 312 BC and 226 AD, included 11 water channels to supply public baths, fountains, latrines, gardens, milling, farms, and private homes. And as the city grew more aqueducts were added, even up to the 1500s. Builders took advantage of terrain contours and created sloping channels to move the water from spring and river sources to the Roman city without the use of pumps, only gravity. We enjoyed our walk in this quieter area of Rome on a warm, sunny afternoon in late summer.

Aqua Claudio Aqueduct, completed in 38 AD, took 11 years and over 30 thousand laborers to build. During the first century AD it provided the best water in the city, at least according to evaluators at that time. We were quite impressed with the beauty, quality, and vastness of the remains of Claudio since it is almost 2,000 years old.

Aqua Felice Aqueduct, which initially supplied water to Triton Fountain in Piazza Barberini, was the first new aqueduct built during the Roman Renaissance. Spanning 24 kilometers in length with the first 13 kilometers underground, the water flowed through the channels from a spring source beginning in the 1500s. We walked on and beside only a small section of the Felice water system, which is now surrounded by a large park area with patches of green grass and a line of tall, beautiful umbrella pine trees, also called parasol pines or Italian stone pines.

Via Appia Antica, a very old and 480 kilometer road, was built in 312 BC for military and economic transport between Rome and its outer settlements. The first 16 kilometers of the avenue in Rome are now preserved as part of a regional park. And as we walked along the road we noticed the surprisingly good condition of the stone paving. Historians report that Julius Caesar walked along Appian Way with thousands of soldiers, leaders, and consuls; Christian converts are buried along this ancient road; and Roman officials crucified former slave and gladiator Spartacus on the ancient avenue in 71 BC. 

Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis sits on a busy corner of Via Appia Antica. During our visit to the small, yellow church we learned of the “Domine, quo vadis?” or “Lord, where are you going?” legend where Peter, who was at the very same corner during his escape from Nero’s persecution, saw Christ in a vision. After Jesus reportedly responds that he is going to Rome to be crucified again, Peter accepts his own fate as a martyr. At the back of the sanctuary we viewed the impression of extra-long, skinny footprints in marble stone that are attributed to Jesus and two beautiful, life-size frescoes.

Catacombs di San Callisto was the next stop on our walk along Via Appia Antica. Our very knowledgeable and personable catacomb tour guide explained that many of the early popes were buried at San Callisto and that during the 3rd to 5th centuries it was the largest Roman Christian cemetery. After that time thieves ravaged the underground site, stealing most of the bones. Our highly informative and very interesting tour focused on the layout, history, and meaning of the burial area and four levels; various types of tombs and niches; plus slabs of marble, artifacts, and altars that remain. We also saw two recreations of how skeletons were buried there hundreds of years ago.  Unfortunately we do not have photos of the underground tour to include in this post because we were not allowed to take photos.