Temple Ruins on Luxor’s East Bank – November 2020
Several days after visiting West Bank ancient temples, we took a boat taxi across the Nile River with our guide Hassan to the more contemporary half of the city of Luxor. We spent most of the day exploring Karnak and Luxor Temples.
Karnak Temple – The two square-kilometer site is really a complex of temples built over a 1500 year period of time by almost 30 pharaohs. Most of the construction was done during the New Kingdom, 1570 to 1100 BC. Hassan took us through the most interesting and photographic portions.
Karnak’s hypostyle hall, described as the largest in the world, includes 134 papyrus-shaped columns arranged in 16 rows and covering 5,000 square meters. Most of the columns are 10 meters tall, but 12 of them stand at 21 meters. We definitely felt dwarfed by the massive stonework.
Susan found a shady spot in the hypostyle hall.
Example of significant restoration work on some of the 3 meter-diameter columnsColumns with closed papyrus capitals A bit of color remains on some of the capitals Open papyrus capital Colorful details between closed papyrus capitals
Reliefs
Cartouche Table of offerings Khnum (ram-headed god of fertility and water)
Karnak and Luxor Temples are connected by a three-kilometer-long, paved avenue of human-headed sphinxes. We did not walk the length of the street, but instead rode in our water taxi from one site to the next.
Many of the human-headed sphinxes are in pretty good condition.
Luxor Temple – During the 13th century BC Ramses II, also known as Ramses the Great, built the north half of the original structure. Despite the fact that he dedicated the temple to gods Amun, Mut, and Khonsu, the most dominant image in the religious site is Ramses II. The 24 meter-high first pylon includes reliefs of his military battles. And in front of that he comissioned six large statues of himself, four seated and two standing. And for extra emphasis he added two obelisks of pink granite. One remains at the temple and the other stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris.
East side of first pylon West side of first pylon
Ramses II Court Ramses II Grand colonnade Sun court of Amenhotep III
Stone installed upside down during restoration
Changes through the Centuries – It was common practice for a new pharaoh to damage or remove images of a previous (and disliked) pharaoh from Egyptian temples. And as Christianity became more common in the area in the first four centuries AD, Romans modified the temples to include crosses and Biblical artwork.
Damaged image of pharaoh receiving a blessing from
Horus (god of kingship & sky, falcon image) and Thoth (god of wisdom, ibis image)
Karnak TempleChristians modified this stone sculpture in Karnak Temple to portray the image of a cross. Christians plastered and painted over original reliefs in Luxor Temple
The Abu Haggag Mosque was built on top of a portion of the ancient Luxor Temple in 640 AD. It is still an active mosque.
Birds – It’s been a while since we have included bird photos in a post. We didn’t seen a wide variety of birds in Luxor, but the ones we did see were along the Nile River shore.
Hoopoes Squacco heron Stilts