Temples Now On Higher Ground – November 2020

Two dams affect water flow along the upper Nile River. The low dam, constructed in 1902, caused water levels to rise near the city of Aswan. And about 60 years later the high dam was built to not only control river water levels, but also to generate electricity. The slowed water at the second dam became Lake Nasser, which is 2/3 in Egyptian territory and 1/3 claimed by Sudan. Because of the dams, Philae Temple and the Temples of Abu Simbel now stand on higher ground.

Philae Temple – During our week in Aswan we took a short trip by car and then by boat to Philae Temple, one of the best preserved temples in Egypt and last known place where hieroglyphics were written. Ptolemy II started building the temple on Philae Island around 690 AD to honor Isis, the goddess of magic, fertility, and motherhood. About 1200 years later the construction of the high dam caused the Nile River water levels to rise and the temple was in danger of becoming submerged. UNESCO spent 8 years dismantling the temple and then rebuilding it on the higher, nearby Island of Agilika. Philae Island is now fully submerged in Lake Nasser

Years after the Egyptian dynasties, Philae Temple served as a refuge for oppressed Christians who carved crosses in the stones.

Temples of Abu Simbel – Two days after visiting Philae Temple we took a two hour car ride to the West Bank of Lake Nasser to explore the very impressive Temples of Abu Simbel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our guide explained that due to rising lake waters, the two temples were meticulously cut into pieces, slowly moved, and then very carefully rebuilt in 1968 at a location with higher elevation. Most of the cracks in the delicate sandstone rocks and artifacts were repaired with epoxy resin and some areas were strengthened with steel. Restoration workers used over 30 tons of reinforcing steel and about 23 tons of resin to complete the project.As part of the rebuilding process a large dome was constructed to house the temples and then the back of the dome was covered with rocks and dirt to resemble a mountain.

The Great Temple of Ramses II, originally carved out of a mountain along the Nile River in the 13th century BC, features a facade of four majestic statues of the pharaoh. Between the 20 meter-tall images stand smaller images of his wife Nefertari, his mother Queen Thuya, and some of his favorite children.

One of the four faces lies at the feet of the statue. Susan stands near the entrance.

Images of Ramses II dominate the temple interior.

Large images of Ramses II line the center of the hypostyle hall

Reliefs cover the interior walls. A few still have a bit of color.

Originally the temple was positioned so that the first solar rays at sunrise on February 21 and October 21 illuminated the figures of Ra, Amun, and Ramses II at the back of the temple. The fourth and far-left figure of Ptah, god connected to the dark Underworld, was intentionally placed to not be illuminated. This phenomenon occurs one day later in the temple’s new location.

The four images can be seen from just inside the temple entrance.

Ramses II not only built a lasting monument for himself, but also created a special temple for his wife in the same rock mountain. The queen’s temple honors Hathor, goddess of sky, fertility, and love. Six 10 meter-high statues of Ramses II and Nefertari stand at the entrance. A few of their children are also featured in the facade. The images of Nefertari feature the costume of Hathor and she is shown as the same height as the pharaoh, a very unusual depiction for a queen.

Susan at the etrance to the Temple of Hathor

Looking at Lake Nasser from inside the temple.

Interior hypostyle hall

Just a few of the reliefs in the Temple of Hathor

Go…See…Do…Be

Retirement Done Well

Temples Now On Higher Ground – November 2020