Hill of the Jackal – October 2021

We explored Mapungubwe National Park in the springtime. This was our first visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Site and we saw just a portion of the 280 square-kilometer park at the northern border of South Africa. The unfenced, north edge of MNP is the meeting of three countries and two rivers. Park animals can freely move between South Africa, Botswana, and Zimbabwe by crossing the Limpopo and Shashe River floodplains.

We stayed in Leokwe Camp, a group of chalets with double or triple rondovels, a swimming pool, many mopane trees, and no fencing to keep the park creatures at a distance. Quite a few baboons and mongooses wandered through the camp, as well as several elephants, waterbuck, wildebeest, warthogs, and klipspringers.

Many baobab trees grow in the park and elephants love to eat the spring leaves and moist, sweet-tasting wood. The trees are able to survive complete debarking if given a chance to grow new bark in a few months. However, the elephants aren’t always patient enough for that to happen. The park staff have started to protect some of the baobab trees by placing 3 meter-high wire mesh around the trunks. The elephants do not like the feel of the metal on their tusks and trunks. 

Park guide Cedric took us to the important heritage site of Mapungubwe Hill, also called the Hill of the Jackal. The Kingdom of Mapungubwe is the oldest known kingdom in Southern Africa (around 900-1300AD) and archeologists began exploring the hill and surrounding area in the 1930s. They discovered evidence of trading with India, China, and Egypt through Islamic traders who worked along the East African coast. The king and his family lived on top of the hill and the commoners lived in the valley below. When paleontologists excavated 23 royal graves and portions of royal residences they unearthed several very significant artifacts: a golden rhinoceros made from gold foil nailed around a wooden interior, plus a gold sceptre and gold bowl. 

Wildlife in or near Leokwe Camp

Several mornings we saw a pair or two of klipspringers in the camp or on nearby roads. Surprisingly, they were not spooked by our car stopping or driving slowly past.

One morning we sat in the wooden hide at Maloutswa Pan and photographed the entertaining birds and animals that came for a mud bath or drink.

This lilac-breasted roller captured our attention while it hunted for and ate his centipede breakfast at the pan.

More Mapungubwe wildlife

Unfortunately we did not see any of the 5 rhinos and 15 or so lions that live in the park. Maybe we will see them on our next visit.