We returned to one of our favorite countries: Croatia. Our 2020 adventures there focused mostly on the north, so this time we explored four southern Croatia locations during our Balkan road trip: Ston, Zaton, Dubrovnik, and Mljet Island. 

The town of Ston, with a population of about 2,500 on the Peljesac Penninsula, is known for its stone walls and salt works. In the early 1300s laborers built a large defensive complex to protect the land and lucrative salt works on the coastline of the Adriatic Sea. Seven kilometers of tall stone walls extended over a hill to surround the five fortresses, 41 towers, seven bastions and a system of moats. The restored Saint Jerome Fort, pictured below, is open to visitors. We briefly watched caterers set up for a large reception on the main level and then enjoyed the great views of Ston from the upper level of the fort.

Just over five kilometers of the wall remain, most of which have been restored using hand-carved stones, the same method used in the 14th century. The walls of Ston are the second largest fortified stone wall system in the world. The Great Wall of China is the biggest.

Since 2008 the town has hosted the Ston Wall Marathon each September. Runners can participate in 4k, 15k and 42k races, all of which include running up and down the historical stone walls.  The longer races continue on to the dam between the salt pans and the sea, forested areas, and farmland. 

For over 2500 years salt has been harvested in Ston. And the process hasn’t changed much since the Middle Ages. The pans fill with sea water. The sun evaporates the water. Workers and volunteers shovel the residual salt into barrows on tracks to transport the crystals to the harvest building. Three pans produce domestic kitchen salt. Industrial salt comes from the other pans. About 500 tons of “white gold” is harvested each year here. The salt works site offers Gathering Salt Summer Camps between July and September, with daily tasks starting at 6 am. The August 20 to September 20 Festival of Salt occurs annually in the town of Ston. Sadly, we were not there for the festival.

The current Church of Saint Blaise is the sixth rendition of the church in Ston. The first one, built in 1342, was expanded plus remodeled before it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667. The rebuilt church (3rd rendition) lasted until 1843 when it, too, was dismantled by another intense temblor. In 1875 builders finished the new cross-shaped Church of Saint Blaise. In 1927 the exterior decorative stone facade was added as part of extensive restoration work after yet another strong earthquake = fifth rendition. Almost 70 years later (1996) a devastating tremor almost completely destroyed the building. The beautifully restored parish church we saw was finished in 2017.

After an enjoyable four days in Ston, we drove south to the village of Zaton, situated along the Adriatic Sea and about 10 kilometers outside of large city of Dubrovnik. The income of the 1,000 village residents comes mostly from tourism, fishing, and farming. Wine vineyards and olive groves are prevalent. We selected Zaton for our 4-week stay because it was quieter and had more reasonably-priced accommodations than Dubrovnik. Almost daily we walked along the 3 kilometer promenade and enjoyed the sites along the way: boats coming and going from the bay, families swimming, and customers at the waterside cafes. We stopped at the cafes for refreshment once in a while too.  

Dubrovnik is a very popular stop for many cruise ships and on some days thousands of passengers go ashore to explore the city, especially the Old Town. We found a website that listed how many cruise ships and passengers would be in the Dubrovnik port each day. So we used that information to plan our trips into the big city on less crowded days. Multiple times we rode the local bus from the village of Zaton into city center for guided walks, a wall walk, shopping, plus exploring the many churches, cafes, forts, harbor promenades, and other historical sites. What follows are highlights of our times in Dubrovnik’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One morning we walked along the top of the 2 kilometers of walls surrounding Old Town. The wall system, first constructed to protect against invaders advancing from the Adriatic Sea, includes one large bastion and nine smaller semi-circular ones. Some portions of the perimeter walls stand 25 meters tall and the typical wall thickness is two to four meters. 

Even though Fort Lovrijenac is actually outside the Old Town walls, it is still viewed as Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar. The soldiers of the medieval hilltop fortress used cannons to protect the city and west harbor. Today the stone structure is a theatre and event venue. 

Dubrovnik’s first cathedral was constructed on this site in the 7th century and replaced 4 times during the next 500 years. The earthquake of 1667 almost destroyed the most recent rendition – the 12th century Cathedral of the Assumption the Virgin Mary, built in Roman Baroque style.

The sandstone Onophrian Fountain, built in 1438 and named after designer Onofrio della Cava, still displays 16 animal spouts that dispense fresh water from a spring 12 kilometers away.

Dubrovnik, like the town of Ston included at the beginning of this post, also has a church dedicated to St. Blaise. The 18th century church is the second most important church in Dubrovnik. The City Bell Tower, standing 31 meters tall, has been a favorite landmark since its construction in 1444. It features two bronze figures, known as the zelenci, who chime the hours by striking the two-ton bell with their hammers.

Fishing boats, sailing boats, and small yachts moor in the Old Harbor, a 15th century pier and adjacent breakwater on the east side of Old Town. 

We took a two-night excursion to Mljet Island, 27 kilometers off the southwest coast of Dubrovnik. We explored much of Mljet National Park as we rode our rented e-bikes along the paths shaded by many trees. 

And we enjoyed a serene, solar-powered boat ride on Veliko Jezero (Big Lake) over to the 12th century Benedictine monastery and church on St. Mary’s Islet. The walled complex is now a museum, cafe, and shop.