City on a Lake – March 2024

During our four weeks in Ethiopia the civil war continued between the federal forces and the Amhara militia from the northwest region. Our guide Zewdu originally planned for the three of us plus a driver to travel by road from the town of Lalibela to Bahir Dar, the third largest city in the country. However, just before our departure the roads were closed on that route because of the fighting. Instead, we flew to Gondar and then drove to Bahir Dar. 

Road scenes on our drive to and from Bahir Dar

Bahir Dar, with a population of about 650,000, is the capital city of the Amhara Region and sits on the shores of Lake Tana. We explored the more traditional parts of the city and a few of nearby the islands. 

Food and clothes market

Livestock market

Lake Tana, the largest lake in the country, has a surface area of about 3,000 square kilometers. In the northern area of the lake the waters flow out of the dam and become the Blue Nile River, which is the beginning of the famous Nile River in northeastern Africa. 

Wildlife on Lake Tana

Many great white pelicans like the peaceful waters of the harbor in Bahir Dar. But, they are not too fond of the boats getting close to them.

We visited two Orthodox Christian monasteries on the Zeghe Peninsula of the lake. The Ura Kdane Mihret is considered to be the most beautiful church in the entire Lake Tana region. Saint Betre Mariam established the monastery in the 14th century. The church we saw was built in the 16th century with traditional mud-plastered round walls and a cone-shaped roof. The current metal roof was added over the thatched roof.

Colorful church at the Azuwa Maryam Monastery on Lake Tana

Exterior improvements to the monastery

Before leaving the Zeghe Peninsula, we purchased a colorful crèche painting on a piece of leather.

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